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Tips |
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Click a link to the subject of interest ... Crashes, Injuries, Aches and Other Problems |
Here are some Tips that first appeared in Mountain Bike magazine. There are a
lot of truisms and some very useful stuff, especially if you are new to Mountain Bike
Riding or Racing. There are a lot of tips from famous riders in the MTB world.
TIPS
· Some singletrack trails are really exposed, with huge, deadly drop-offs to one side. Others run through the woods and feature narrow passages through trees. Trying to ride this stuff is fun. Dying isn't. So if you feel uncomfortable, step off and walk or if you feel like people will snicker at you, step off and run while shouting: 'I used to race cyclocross!"
· Beginners ride as if they're riveted to the centre of the bike. The actual relationship is more like when the bad guy in a western walks on top of a train. While it rolls along, he can move to the front of the car, or the back, or just stay in the centre. Of course, his movements won t affect the train. He doesn't weigh enough to alter its motion. But put that same size body on a bike and see what happens.
· When you're trying to balance at a standstill the instinct is to saw the handlebar back and forth. This is bad. It results in something called oscillatory steering instability. Instead, control the bike by moving your head and shoulders sideways. This results in something called coolness.
· The best way to improve your on-bike balance is to learn to do a trackstand which means you just balance in place looking all cool. Here are six steps for mastering this important skill.
That's All Folks When you get better you can move to the flats, and you'll learn how to point your knees to maintain balance. None of this is difficult to understand once you're on the bike, but don't expect much hang time in your first 20-30 attempts.
· Use your front brake more. Using too much rear causes it to lock and skid, which rips up the lovely trail and reduces your control. (On the right surface, experienced riders can skid in control. Then it's called a technique. For you, it's a mistake.)
· Once your rubber skids you can't brake any harder. It's more efficient if you can keep applying braking force to a spinning wheel - this is why so many new car owners want anti-lock braking systems. You don't have that fancy system on your mountain bike but you can emulate it by using a series of quick, tiny micro-braking actions. It's called feathering or stuttering.
· "When I hear that a solid, hard feel on the brake lever equals stopping power, I want to scream. Walk into Joe's Bike Shop and squeeze the brake levers on a showroom bike. Hard as a rock, right? If it hurts your hand, it must be powerful, right? Not!. Looking for maximum resistance at the lever is like climbing hills in your highest gear. More resistance is not better. Leverage is what it's all about. To get more leverage you must set up your brakes to have more travel at the lever, which turns into greater leverage at the rim. That's where it really needs to happen. And if you want to know why it seems easier to lock your wheel with a firmer-feeling lever, that's because the power comes on more abruptly. But sudden power application with no modulation or control of traction isn't good braking! "-Wayne Lumpkin, creator of Avid brakes and Fevers
· A major cause of poor brake performance is pad residue on your rims. Clean with steel wool.
· About 70 percent of your braking power comes from the front brake. That leaves 30 percent on the back. But these figures change radically as conditions do. Muddy stuff decreases your rear stopping power more than it wipes out your front. And you can change how much braking power you get at either wheel by shifting your weight forward or backward.
· Find a favourite hand position. Most riders put their index and middle finger on the brake levers, and wrap the others around the handlebar. Some riders brake with only their index fingers. There are other configurations, but find the one that feels secure and doesn’t fatigue your fingers.
· The number of fingers on the brake lever should change depending on the terrain. It has to do with how much handlebar control you need balanced with how much force your braking might require. A handy rule to remember is 'Brake hard where the ground is hard, and soft where the ground is soft." · Brake with your entire bike. Your levers and cantilevers are only the most obvious parts of your stopping system. Do this: To increase control and power, it can help to grip the seat with your quads or move your weight back as you brake. Try scrubbing off speed by running up banks or curving turns. Just as good mountain bikers use all of their bikes and bodies to steer, they go beyond fingers when it comes to stopping, too. Watch them and experiment. · Don't use your brakes only when you want to slow. Good braking is about control, and sometimes it can even help you build speed. Just try alternating squeezes and releases on your next long descent. Lay off the brakes sooner than usual coming out of a corner. Notice the control it gives you? The surges of speed? This is the hidden power of brakes. They do more than stop you. They help you master your movement.
· High-performance braking comes at the maximum braking point. Right before you start to skid-not too soon before, and definitely not after. Why shouldn’t you brake earlier? Because you scrub off too much speed. Why not later? Because locking up the brakes is inefficient and mean to tender trails.
· Can't remember which brake is which'? Left is Rear
· Think of braking as a process. It begins not with a lever squeeze, but with a weight shift. You rise off the saddle and extend your arms. Keep your elbows bent. This keeps weight off the front wheel. Result? A more controlled bike.
· The trail is your brake lever. Try peeling off speed by running up on berms, banking turns, bumping over rocks. You'll get a feel for what slows you without actually braking - good for creating a flowy rhythm on a ride. You'll also learn what not to do when you're trying to hit max speed.
· Let your front wheel roll freely after you go over a log or drop-off on a downhill. Applying the front brake can lead to an endo in extreme situations, but more often it merely destroys your stability. That's why so many people ride a tough downhill section then blow it right afterward.
· "If you skid, you failed. Find the maximum braking point just before the tire starts skidding. As you get better, squeeze the front brake harder and the rear brake less. Motorcycle riders can brake so well that the rear wheel begins to leave the ground."-Tom Hillard
· To learn how to balance on the edge between power and loss of traction on a climb, find a relatively steep hill with a moderately loose surface. This should be a climb you could handle quite easily if not for the lack of traction. Shift into your lowest gear and aggressively attack it. Get out of the saddle and force the rear wheel to begin breaking free. Do this a few times, then try it while sitting. Learn how much pedaling force you can apply before losing traction. Now change tactics. Ride into the hill as slowly as you can in your lowest gear. Creep up so you're constantly on the verge of stalling. Pretend you're in an aeroplane, the stall warning buzzer keeps going of and you have to make the minimum adjustment to shut it up. Try this standing, then sitting. Now pick the smallest cog you can ride up the slope in. Repeat the previous exercises. Pay attention to your stalling point. Work on sensing the loss of traction before it happens. Do it in and out of the saddle. Play with it. Have fun balancing on the point of power.
· Ride in the climber's position. Just as there is a standard stance for descending (pedals level, weight slightly off the saddle, and elbows and knees loose to absorb shock), a certain climbing position is most effective for most situations. Flex your elbows and bend forward at the hips, keeping your back straight. You should be leaning toward the handlebar and your butt should be pushed back on the saddle a bit. This posture lowers your centre of gravity, distributes your weight to the front and rear, and allows you to easily make the weight shifts and movements you'll need to maintain traction and power.
· Most inexperienced climbers don't bend toward the bar enough, believing that if they sit upright over the rear wheel they'll prevent spinout. Just the opposite. The wayback position unweights the front wheel which either causes the riders to stop, or makes them lose rear traction anyway when they suddenly scoot forward to keep the front down. If you want to go up, you have to get down Lean · Maintain traction when climbing by modifying your stock position. As the pitch steepens, lean more toward the bar (drop your nose closer). This puts more of your weight over the front and, at the same time, pushes your butt back to keep weight over the rear tire. Tune yourself until you find the lean angle that keeps both wheels rooted. (Front wheel loose: too little lean. Back wheel loose: too much.) You'll eventually learn what lean matches what pitch.
· On a steep incline simply leaning toward the handlebar won't maintain traction. You need to keep the front wheel down by leaning waaay over - sometimes your nose will be past the handlebar and as little as four inches above it - and by sliding forward onto the tip of the saddle. (This is one reason pros like narrow saddles with long noses.) But with all your weight forward, what about the back wheel? You can keep it grooved by pulling back on the handlebar. This single move often provides a climbing breakthrough for new riders. It makes the rear wheel dig in.
· When you rise out of the saddle you use about 12 percent more oxygen and raise your heart rate about 11 percent. Or so the lab rats say Regardless, standing is harder on your body. It requires more effort because your legs provide locomotion and support you.
· If you don't stand at least occasionally you're climbing without one of your most valuable skills. Among other things standing lets you deliver more power to the pedals. It can delay fatigue because it uses your muscles differently. And it lets you during extended climbs.
· Here are three tips for making the transition from seated climbing to standing without losing speed, control or traction.
~ As your foot comes around to begin a downstroke, shift to a harder gear (if you don't, you waste energy with choppy pedal strokes), then rise out of the saddle It you have bar-ends, move your hands out to them. You should be as upright as the pitch will allow, with your chest out over the handlebar. Your lower back should be straight. ~ Sway the bike from side to side (but no more than a toot each way). This establishes a rhythm and wakes your downstrokes more direct and powerful. Some riders like to pull up on the bar to do this Pushing is nice because you can do it without clenching your hands. ~ You've nailed the technique when you realise why it's sometimes described as 'running on the pedals.' If you feel jerky and out of control, you're either not pushing a big enough gear or you're completely straightening your leg on the downstroke. Go for a 95 percent bend and concentrate on pushing and pulling through a complete circle. This will eliminate the dead spot.
· As with most things mountain bike, there are no rules dictating how often and how long you should stand during a climb. Just plenty of generalisations. Here arc the helpful ones. Try not to sit back down when the grade is steep. You'll stall. If possible, wait till you have a break in the climbing. And remember to shift back to an easy gear as you return to the saddle. Most heavy riders do better when they climb seated more than they stand. The opposite applies to light riders. Most novices don't stand often enough, and when they do they stand too long.
· Don't try to motor up hills in one speedy gulp. Find your own pace. You can pedal at amazingly slow cadences and stay upright. To make it to the top of a big climb with some oomph left, go a little slower than you might be tempted. Staying just below your pain threshold will give you better endurance.
· Get bonus traction on technical climbs by standing and lifting your front wheel over large rocks and ledges, then jerking the back wheel onto them and using these harder surfaces for more traction.
· On really long climbs stopping to rest is acceptable. During those stops, you might be tempted to turn around or walk. Don't. Recharge your batteries for five minutes, psyche yourself up and pedal to the next rest point.
· Rather than anticipating the top, anticipate the next bend - the one you can't see. Make that a goal. When you reach that one, immediately focus on the following bend
· Because climbing is a repetitive act, it helps to think repetitive things. Really. Try repeating a phase over and over again. Something simple like "I'll make it." Or, "Make mine a double." It gives you rhythm and helps occupy your pain.
· Cross-country pro Sarah Ellis is a hot-shot ascender. Here are four of her secrets for stupendous climbing. Don't tell anyone else.
~ "On a long climb I like to get into a rhythm, a pace and pedaling cadence that I relate to. Some riders have inconsistent rhythms-their speeds go straight or straight down. On long, sustained climbs I like to find one rhythm-but I start out easy and ride harder into the rhythm."
~"Anyone can attack a hill fast, but it takes self-discipline to control your pace and climb calmly. It's one of the hardest things to do." ~ "A lot of people say how great it is to have someone in front of you on a climb so you can chase instead of being hunted. I like seeing people ahead of me, too, but only it I'm near the front. I think the worst thing is to be so far back you have to work around a lot of people. That can get tiring. I'll get on a wheel on a climb and realise that she's going too strong for me, I don't give up. I hold the pace as long as I can, and then even after she pulls away I concentrate on keeping her in sight as long as I can. You go taster than if you give up right away." · Ride shallow, On an uphill curve, don't ride too close to the inside. It's shorter but the incline can be much steeper. Take the more gradual outside line. · "Climbing can be very, very painful. I always think that once I'm over the climb there's usually a fun downhill, so I can really suffer up a climb because I'm anticipating a really awesome downhill. Even though going downhill is strenuous it's really fun, so I concentrate on getting to the top of climb where I know I'll have fun. You can't say that races are won on the uphill, but if you can't suffer on the climb, you won't do well."-Jammy Jacques
· Common steep-climbing mistake: Moving your hips too far forward when you bend forward or scootch up to maintain traction. Keep your hips back, more or less centred over the bike, or else your rear wheel gets skittish.
· I like to put my weight to the inside and pedal through comers. It's like applying the gas in a car as you go around a curve it helps maintain traction." - Silvia Furst · You may not have the skill or experience to risk putting a foot down at 45 mph, but at slower speeds an outrigged limb can help you through a sharp turn. Almost as much as the foot, it's the low and wide stance that will keep you upright and on course."-Missy Giove · "I put the emphasis on getting my weight on the outside pedal A lot of people put their outside pedal down, but they really don't push on it. I put a lot of weight on it and carve the turn."-Jason McRoy · The expert - or showboat - way to ride a down-hill switchback is to nose wheelie through it. Here are five steps for flashy switchbacking. Enter the turn wide, on the high side of the frail. Coast at a walking pace. Test your brakes. Make sure they're working predictably before you drop into the steep part. You're going to pivot on the front tire, so wake room for the rear to swing around by steering into the apex of the corner. Your weight should be slightly (just slightly) rearward. Keep the inside pedal (the downhill one) bark for leverage. As your front tire reaches the apex of the corner, dig the inside grip down and back and move your torso forward, Pinch the front brake lever firmly and give a little hop with your feet. At this point, your rear wheel should leave the ground (EGAD!). You'll soon know if you've hopped or squeezed too hard. If so, get up and fry again. ~ In midflip, push the inside grip ahead. This twists the rear wheel around the corner. It also tilts the bike away from the abyss, which keeps you from overbalancing and falling to the outside when you land. ~ Because of your considerable lateral momentum, you need to land the back wheel far enough around the corner that you don't get "high sided" over the edge. This is one of the trickiest parts of the turn. Once you "stick" the landing, the rest is cake. Just pedal away with a big stupid grin on your face.
· Stop pedaling as you enter a turn and keep your cranks horizontal, Unless you think you'd enjoy catching a pedal on a bank, rock or log. On smooth surfaces, however, you can keep the outside pedal down to improve traction. Brake before the turn. Locking the levers in a turn makes you more likely to skid. Even if we don't cuddle the dirt blanket, your rhythm and swoop are disrupted. It's more efficient and, for some reason, quicker to brake before entering a curve. For instance, a rider who surfs an entire turn at a smooth 15 almost always gets through quicker than one who enters at 17 and brakes. (Advanced riders brake later in turns. How the hell do they do that?) · If possible, try to plan your path to approach wide, cut inside across the turn, and exit wide. This reduces the sharpness of the curve and minimises the amount of lean you'll need. It also lets you ride a more direct line (you go almost straight through the curve instead of turning), which helps traction on loose surfaces. Of course, you won't always have this luxury - sometimes your line is determined by the width or conditions of the trail. · Lean into turns. Press down on the grip that's on the inside, and angle the bike over. At slow speeds, or for tighter corners, you'll need to steer slightly inward, too. Don't worry about being tentative and not getting much lean. As you gain confidence in your traction, you'll slant more. The key is to slowly build speed and lean. Too much of a jump in either, and you'll skid. · If you're arcing wide in a turn, cut tight with elbow and knee swings. Your instinct might be to crank the handlebar inward. Sometimes this works, but sometimes it turns the front tire in a direction your momentum doesn’t want to go. Things get messy. Instead, pop your limbs toward the inside corner. It's swoop time.
· When you're leaning in a turn, you can stick your bike to the ground with body weight for additional traction. Used correctly, your weight can drive the treads into the surface and counteract the sideways forces that want to push your bike out from under you. One method is to push down against the outside pedal. Some riders stay seated and transfer their weight straight down through the seatpost. Others move the bike underneath them until it's on the inside track and their body rests outside. Even the opposite bike outside, body inside - and be effective. What's the best method? Depends on your speed, your tires, your juju, the turn, the terrain....
· 180 around a 6-inch cone is the hardest turn in the world. Practice that and you can do anything. Put the cone down in the middle of a field, then ride toward it at 20 mph. Brake 10 feet from it and see if you make the turn. If you do, brake at 8 feet, and keep reducing the distance until you overshoot it." - John Henderson
· Because off-camber turns slope down on the outside of the curve, inertia and other things conspire to throw you off the trail and down the hill. Going slow isn't a sure cure. Your bike will still dive out and down. Try riding an inside line, and also leaning the bike out while your body stays in. Good riders can turn their front wheel 90 degrees, then hop the rear of the bike around - jumping the turn instead of steering through it.
· Switchbacks are like hairpins Trailbuilders blaze them when the slope is too steep to go straight up or down. Here are three hints to get you through the next one:
~ Steer wide, so the pitch is less severe.
~ At the apex (where the turn is most pronounced), cut inside.
· Round your turns in a smooth arc to maintain momentum. Don’t zigzag. Lean your body more than your bike to speed your way through abrupt changes in direction."-Juli Furtado
· In corners, pick a line that can handle your speed. If you're going fast, the outer side usually holds you better."-Toby Henderson
· If I don't come out of a turn on the very outside I didn't go through it fast enough."-Tony Henderson
· Accelerate out of corners. Jam on your pedals sometime after passing the apex but while you're still in the arc. Do it right, and you'll feel as if the turn is flinging you out onto the trail. You can learn to recognise the right moment by practising on a smooth (and preferably soft) turn. Try to begin pedaling closer and closer to the turn's midpoint. Don't feel flung? You're waiting too long. If you stick a pedal in the ground, or find speed but lose it before exiting, you're not waiting long enough.
· In banked turns, don’t hug the inside edge. It's usually off-camber. Instead, ride up on the outside edge of the trail don’t be afraid of that bank. The outside edges help you turn, so the handlebar stays straighter while you lean.
· If your turns suck, you're probably making one of these three common mistakes:
~ Too little lean or weighting to maintain traction. Trust physics and your bike. Lean and press. Lean and press.
~ Too little confidence. The bike makes adjustments on its own. To the uninitiated, these feel like wipeouts - in waiting. So they hail. Ride it out. You'll be surprised.
~ Too much speed. If you feel like you're doing everything right but you still can't stick the turns like the rest of the group, then don't. You're a novice. Enjoy if while you can. Someday you'll be expected to ice every move.
· The apex of a turn is the point where the turn is most pronounced its peak. How you ride through the apex affects the whole freaking turn. Here's a look: ~ Early-apex turns are the most popular kind. This is a mistake, but it's easy to understand why. Most riders start to turn as soon as they see the turn. This leads to "over-turning," where you've turned so much so early that you’re forced to move inside, brake, and end up slowing down too much.
~ A mid-apex turn is the fastest kind of turn-where the apex of your travel coincides with the physical apex of a turn. You ride to the widest point and change your direction of travel there. It is a kind, gentle turn that sweeps you through a curve. Late-apex turns are excellent when you want to pass somebody in a corner or scare the bejesus out of one of your riding buddies. You brake late in this turn-this slows you down-but you usually come out ahead of the next guy. These turns are great on banked surfaces, which help you exit at speed.
CRASHES, INJURIES, ACHES ANS OTHER PROBLEMS
· Build your abilities before you build your speed.-Ned Overend
· Bad, bad, bad idea I saw someone do on a ride once: Take both feet off the pedals trying to prevent a fall during a sketchy downhill. If you do this you will slide forward along the top tube, flip over the front of the bike and find out how much traction your face has. Guaranteed. The only sure thing in mountain biking. Never do this. I still get tics when I picture it.
· What to do after you augur in miles from anywhere and break your pelvis: drag yourself to your bike, remove the plugs from the handlebar and blow into it with your lips pursed. It'll ooga like those primitive trumpets in black-and-white safari movies, leading rescuers right to your sorry ass.
· Although speed on a descent can be frightening, it can also be a wonderful ally. Speed translates into momentum and momentum can get you through obstacles that you'd otherwise need to dismount for. Consequently, don't be surprised when you find yourself tiptoeing a delicate line between enough speed to get you through and too much for safety. A classic example is on the Poison Spider Trail near Moab, Utah. Those who come closest to cleaning it are usually carrying more speed. Those who dab the most are the ones who try to finesse their way down and lack enough momentum to roll over rocks. But the consequences of failing are severe enough to deter all but the most-aggressive riders.
· Find a hill. Find the point halfway down it. Start at the top, ride to that mark, then try to come to a stop as quick as you can without locking up or skidding. This will help you learn downhill braking control and balance. Just don't kill yourself.
· Find a really, really steep hill with a lot of loose stuff. Now, try to go down it as slowly as possible. You might skid, but try not to. You might fall, but try not to. The goal is slow-speed control. The bailout is releasing the brakes and rocketing down.
· "On a downhill, just try to take every section as efficiently and smoothly as possible, and get your wheels to follow the terrain." ~ Myles Rockwell
· The chest-on-saddle method of descending has fallen from popular favour because you can't do it and look fast. But give it a try: drop your butt off the back of the saddle, extend your arms and legs (but don't lock them), and flatten yourself over the saddle. In this position you absolutely cannot endo, and your bike can absorb drops as deep as a foot without feeling slightly out of control. The position feels weird, but with a little practice you can descend scary things.
· "It's important to stay relaxed. If I find myself tensing up, it's time to back off and return to my level of safety. Listen to yourself because when you push too hard and crash, next time you have a fear barrier to get through. Sometimes, though, it's safer to go a little faster. When you go too slow, the bumps seem bigger, you can't bunny-hop things and you're just riding the brakes, which can cause a skid that could take you out."-Ruthie Mattles
· "Keep your arms, legs and hands flexed and relaxed during high-speed descents. Your body can bust trail shocks as well as any suspension. -Dave Cullinan
· "Use a way-back position to improve control on high-speed descents. Pressure on the pedals and the strength of your lower back muscles will keep you properly aligned. Keeping your butt low and back slightly arched will improve your control. Eyes up. -Ned Overend
· Most riders don't get far enough behind the saddle when they're descending severe drops although they think they're way off the back, their butts are still hovering over the seat. You can safely get completely behind the saddle, so your butt hangs over the wheel and your chest is directly over the saddle. This feels extreme ~ your arms and legs will be stretched ~ but it gives you much more control than a mere rearward but-still-over-the-saddle stance.
· For the quick dismounts of off-road riding, you need lots of clearance between you and the top tube. The ideal is to have 3-4 inches of clearance between your crotch and the top tube when you straddle the bike with your feet flat on the ground.
· For efficient pedaling, your knee should remain slightly bent at the bottom of the pedal stroke (the same as with a road bike). However, you may wish to lower the saddle slightly for rough terrain, enabling the bike to float beneath you without pounding your crotch. On steep descents, some riders drop the saddle even farther to keep their weight low and rearward, but others just slide off the back. A narrow saddle helps this technique. · Most riders prefer a level saddle, but some (including many women) find a slight nose-down tilt avoids pressure and irritation. Others go slightly nose up, which helps them sit back and lessen strain on their arms. If the saddle has a raised nose and tail with recessed centre, lay a straightedge from end to end to determine tilt.
· Fore/aft saddle position is not for adjusting your reach to the handlebar that's why stems come with different extensions. It's to find the position with the best mix of power and efficiency. When seated comfortably with crankarms horizontal, a plumb line dropped from the bump just below your forward kneecap should bisect the pedal axle. Slide the saddle to achieve this. Riders who specialise in climbing sometimes put their saddles farther forward so they can sit on the comfortable part of the seat rather than the narrow nose when hunched over the bar. (A bike set up this way should have a correspondingly longer stem to avoid a cramped upper body.)
· For overall riding, the stem should place the bar an inch or 2 below the top of the saddle. This helps put weight on the front wheel so it's easier to steer on climbs and less likely to pull up. Lower is even better, but it can be scary on descents. Downhillers and "comfort" riders have the handlebar higher sometimes even with the saddle. (Never exceed the stem's maximum extension line or it could break and cause a crash.)
· Your bike's "reach" or cockpit length is determined by adding the top tube and stem lengths. When choosing among various frame sizes that allow your correct saddle height (thanks to long seatposts) use the combined top-tube and stem lengths to decide. You want comfortably bent arms and a straight back. A longer and lower reach works for fast racing, but a higher, closer hand position affords more control on difficult trails.
· When your top tube/stem length combo is correct, you should have a forward lean of about 45 degrees during normal riding. This is the most efficient angle because the strong gluteus muscles of the buttocks don't contribute much to pedaling when you're sitting more upright. Plus, a forward lean shifts some weight to the arms, so your butt doesn't get as sore.
· Slightly bent arms act as shock absorbers. If you can only reach the bar with elbows locked, get a shorter stem and/or condition yourself to lean forward more. If your upper arms and shoulders fatigue quickly when riding, you may need a longer stem or even a frame with a longer top tube. If your lower back usually aches, the reach might be too long.
· Novices on singletrack usually run into the very objects they hope to avoid, In their intensity to keep from hitting a rock or log, they stare at it. This is where your Little League coach was right. Keep your eye on the ball (or rock), and you'll hit it. Only difference is that in mountain biking, it's you, not the ball, that gets slammed. Look at the path you want to take. Your front wheel will follow. Simple as that.
· "You can't ride and think about dinner or divorce or the bills. You need to be one big sensory receptor if you're going to stay within the margins of control. You need to be like an animal. They don't think about bills."-Jacquie Phelan · Don't stare at what you want to miss. Your bike follows your eyes. Fixate on that 4-foot drop-off and you'll be in it. Instead, scan for obstacles and focus on them just until they register in your brain. Then turn your sight to where you want to go. Trust that organic computer of yours to plot a clear course. This doesn't mean you should never focus. Don't become a blind battering ram. Need to backspin so your pedal clears a rock'? Have to thread your wheel between two logs? Look at these and other problem areas, but remember to concentrate on the good line (the cleanest route past an obstacle).
· Don't look directly at your front wheel. By then, it's too late to react to trail conditions. Give yourself lead-time by focusing farther out. Most mountain bikers cite 30-40 feet as a typical distance. But novices are usually more comfortable beginning at half that and gradually expanding. Don't forget to adjust either. In slow, technical sections, focus perhaps only a single bike length ahead. On fast, smooth descents, you might preview up to 100 feet.
· Scope every-thing. Pay attention to more than just the obvious obstacles. Will the trail surface affect you? If the trail cuts sideways on an incline, is it angled into the hill or away? Glance away from the trail. Do you have room to biff or do you need to watch those trees on the right'? Will that parallel stream cross the single-track around the next turn? All this helps you decide on the best line.
· "Sometime in training, stop your bike and read the terrain ahead. See what clues there are to help you ride that section. Is there a rut or some sand to avoid? Train your focus to switch back and forth, near and far. Think of it like looking up while you're driving, then down at your speedometer. Constantly go back and forth."-Golden Brainard
· Can't train yourself to look far enough ahead of your wheel instead of directly down at it? This is a drill only for the desperate because although it's effective it's also really stupid. Wear ski goggles that have the bottom half taped over to force you to look up and ahead.
· You should never get on a mean course without being really focused. Just logging in 'one more run’ at the end of the day usually means trouble. And never decide to just play on a course and then, halfway through, change your mind. Then it’s too late."-Penny Davidson
· Stop looking at the edge of the trail.
· Be a lemming: That means follow blindly when you ride, or at least almost blindly. Your attitude: If somebody else can do it, so can I. (This also applies to taking a ridiculous risk on your bike and getting killed ~ so be a bit careful.) · On twisty courses where you can't see the next bend, be extra careful.
· Pick out the "peak" move. Identify the section that will require the most skill or power or both to clean (get across without putting a foot down). Plot your line backward from there.
· Look through riders ahead of you. People move around a lot when they're mountain biking, so most of the time you can get a decent (although shifting) line of sight enough to anticipate the trail.
· Even if you're not into the allure of the air, you should know how to return to earth. All mountain bikers are eventually forced to jump obstacles because they're going too fast to safely ride over them, or someday need to land after an unexpected launch. Here are six tips for happy landings. ~ Keep cool. Always ride loose, with your elbows and knees flexed. Don’t let an unexpected flight seize you with panic. Remind yourself to relax. ~ Level your cranks. ~ Get your butt off the saddle and shift your weight slightly rearward. Not too much. Just behind the bottom bracket is pretty good. ~ Try to land rear-wheel first. Pull up and back on the handlebar. Bad things happen when beginners land on the front wheel or even both wheels. ~ Keep the front wheel straight. Many riders have an innate tendency to twist the handlebar when they're in the air. ~ When you hit, let the bike come up toward you. This motion occurs automatically if you're relaxed. Instead of struggling against the shock of landing, you absorb it. This is especially important if you don't land rear wheel first.
· Practice hopping obstacles at home: You can use all sorts of household junk lumber, chairs, old appliances, your baby sister as barriers. This is a skill you really can perfect in your, or your neighbour’s, backyard.
· When leaping huge ditches keep pedaling, especially if there's the slightest chance your rear wheel won't make it. If you do screw up, there's a chance you can save it by pedaling hard. This is the method Evel Knieval used to get over Snake River Canyon. · World champion downhiller Mike King wins races by jumping fast and low instead of profiling way high. Here are his four steps for fast flights. ~Attacking the bump at full speed, stand up high over your bike to raise your centre of gravity and preload the front end. Staying high, pop the front wheel up lust in time to clear the lip.
~Your body's as high as if will get, so let the bike come up to you as the back wheel makes contact with the jump. How? Push your hands forward, drop your butt way behind the saddle and pull the bike into your chest with your knees. Popping the front wheel over the jump and distributing your weight rearward should all be done in one evenly timed motion. Meanwhile, don't forget to keep pedaling. Seriously. It helps to he skinny-and aggressive. Don't be surprised if you crash the first in times you try this. ~With your butt still back and arms straight. pedal like mad down the backside of the jump, pulling against the handlebar to counteract the force. This is where you'll pass the guys who are still hanging in the air. ~When the front wheel touches down, haul yourself hack into the cockpit and put the hammer down.
· When you're learning to jump, you’ll instinctively yank the handlebar to one side during takeoff. You don't want to land like that, so be aware of the flaw and fix it. Quick.
· The bigger the jump and/or the faster the approach speed, the more the rear wheel will kick up under you. Adjust for this by getting more vertical in the approach. You may also develop enough upward rear-wheel thrust to lose ground contact. Don't worry about it. Keep pedaling.
· Brian Lopes: Pro downhiller, coupla world titles, and snazzy dresser, more take-offs than a commercial air pilot. What else to say? Here are six tips for learning to jump. ~"Most people who can't jump don't know how to work the transition. The transition is the take-off. On jumps that are steep, that have what we call big lift, you don't have to work the transition much. The jump lust tends to kick you in the air. 'Course, you have to know how to land."
~"On jumps with a gradual transition, you have to work your body. Pull up with your arms and legs. Work the motion like a skateboarder on a ramp: They bend their knees and push down before they push up. Does that make sense?" ~"Don't stiffen up. It you tighten up and stay stiffer-it your arms are locked out-you slow down. You don't get a good lift." ~"To get a lot of height, go with the flow of the transition and lift your body when the bike lifts. Spring off the top-load your body up coming in, then unload it at the transition and work the height." ~"Sometimes you want to stay low. It's taster. It's safer when you're learning. Kind of push your body almost down into the take-off-but stay relaxed. Let your bike come up into you, then push forward. Don't just stiff-arm the take-off." ~"If you land on a gradual uphill, push the rear wheel down first. If it's flat: rear wheel. On a gradual downhill: both wheels at the same time. On a steep downhill: front wheel first."
· Much of mountain biking is the art of subtle movement, but when you're trying to learn certain techniques such as bunny-hopping you need to exaggerate the motions because we're usually too tentative at first. Pull the front end up higher than feels "right," and spring forcefully. Eventually you'll learn the proper movement and be able to go higher with smoother actions.
· "When you snowshoe, cover your butt because you kick up a lot of snow and you'll get really wet."-Shari Kain
· If your helmet can't pass these three tests, it shouldn't be allowed to ride on your head.
· The best tropical drink in the world is called a "Ray's Mistake," and it is served at the Tiki-Ti Lounge on Sunset Boulevard, in Los Angeles. It was at this bar that mountain biking was first invented by "Luau" Don Raines in l958. You can look it up.
· Write to companies and ask for stickers. Address your letter to the PR or marketing departments, include a self-addressed, stamped envelope, and you'll get plenty of logos to stick on your garage or basement walls.
· The sleeper hold is far more effective than the DDT when wrestling a large opponent, though the DDT can work well if you're strong enough to hoist your opponent above your head.
· Spoon some baking soda, water and rice into your Camelback close the bladder and shake it until it seems time to stop. The abrasiveness of the rice will scour the inside spotless, and the baking soda does something else good. Secretly empty the mess into a friend's CamelBak at an opportune moment.
· When your head starts exuding a funk like day-old roadkill remove your helmet pads, put them in a sock, and wash 'em. Cannibals will have a harder time tracking you through the woods, and your riding friends will appreciate your new spring-fresh odour.
· Buy the best book ever written about cycling. Most of us should be able to read it in a single day: "Curious George Rides a Bike." It's by H.A. Rey, who might be related to Hans. It's only six bucks, too. · Don't buy a messenger bag or backpack unless there's a tab on the back for mounting a flasher. Otherwise you won't be able to position a light so it'll be seen from behind. · Retro wool jerseys are that you accidentally shrink-dry them down to the size of Ken and Barbie. Here's how to un-shrink a wool jersey: Mix two tablespoons of baby shampoo in one gallon of lukewarm water. Soak for 10 minutes, then blot the excess water off with a dry towel. Lay the jersey flat on a fresh towel. Slowly and gently reshape it back to its original size. Dry it away from heat and sunlight. Now go work on your thumbshifters. · To dry your shorts fast, roll them in a towel. Keep rolling up, unrolling, squeezing the towel out, and rolling again. · Don't buy a house until you can afford a yard big enough to cut a decent singletrack in. In today's market, the hassles and investment aren't worth it otherwise. · If you have a non-mountain-biking lover consider this handy alliterative to the traditional marriage arrangement: Sign a marriage contract that runs for five years, with an option to renew at the end. This way if your spouse hates mountain biking you can part ways without the usual hassle. · You only clean your $8-million Oakleys with the special bag. Right? So why is there a scratch across the pretty mirrored surface? You forgot to wash the bag. Dirt and nasty particles embedded in the bag can scrape your lens.
· For the quietest drivetrain, go all Shimano. The more variables you add - Sedis chains, titanium cogsets, Grip Shifts the more clatter you'll get. Then again, who minds a little clatter?
· To make anti-flat goop work with presta-valve tubes, cut a hole in the tube, fill it with goop, and then patch the tube.
· Soft-rubber tires don't wear very long or stick well in the rain. Harder rubber is generally better for the vast majority of riding you'll find in the U.S., with the exception of California-style fast fire roading.
· Grip Shift maintenance mistake No 1: Putting too much lube into the shifter body. It makes the action really, really, really sluggish. Also: Be sure to clean the body with warm soapy water and something that will take the old grease off. Then lightly lube the spring, spring cavity, cable path and both shifter halves. Use Jonnisnot or some other approved grease (some will ruin the plastic, supposedly). Or petroleum jelly.
· To all four mountain bikers who still ride rigid forks: You can get a rounder front tire profile which increases flotation and rim protection - by running a wider tire than recommended for your rim. It won't blow off, really.
· If your fork never bottoms out, it's time to change something. You're not getting enough travel, so lighten the action by changing elastomers, clicking the little dial, etc. In general, you should bottom out your fork once or twice a week while riding.
· Put a new chain on the week before a race. Be sure to ride it to break it in. You'll shift smoother and be less likely to bust a chain during the race.
· To eke more life from worn brake pads, try moving them slightly up (more toward the tire) instead of replacing them. The bottom of the pad usually has more material left on it than the top. Just be careful not to let the pad brush the casing - or tire go pop!
· No matter what dad says, never use petrol to clean your chain or drivetrain. Instead, use a mixture of fertiliser, race-car fuel and compressed matchheads. · No spare, no patches? No problem. Rip the tube apart at the puncture, then tie the ends in a knot. Although the ride will be bumpy, you'll be able to inflate the tube enough to get home. (You might have to refill the tube periodically.)
· Tyres with forward-facing scoops or wide blocks that stretch straight across the tire are not good in mud. The space between the treads is likely to plug up with gunk.
· The most common mistake novice home-mechanics make when trying to adjust a threadless headset? Not loosening the clamp bolts before tightening the star-nut bolt. Also: Don't "upgrade" to a metal cap if you keep breaking your plastic one. Chronic breakage means something is fishy with the headset setup. Have a pro take a look. · Before installing or removing pedals shift the chain onto the big ring. If you leave the teeth exposed they could be chomping on your hand if you slip.
· If you do routine maintenance on your bike, buy cable cutters. They’re made specifically to sever braided and wound cables - the cheapest cable cutter will work better than the most-expensive pair of wire snips or pliers.
· When an 8-inch thorn or some other obvious evil thing is sticking out from your tire, you can do the quickest flat change known to modern society: Roll about 6 inches of tire off the rim on either side of the flat, pull out only the punctured part of the tube, slap a patch on it, and restuff the works before inflating. World Record: 2.3 seconds. Or something like that.
· Here are eight ways to exorcise those mysterious sounds from your otherwise peachy rig:
~ A metallic click during every pedal revolution is the pedal. Remove it, grease it, reinstall it. ~ A squeak is from the pedal if it happens at the same time during every pedal stroke. Also check your cleats for tightness, then dribble or spray a lube between the cleat and shoe. (Wipe off the excess or you'll go a-flying when you try to click in.) ~Chirps come from dry chains. ~ Clicking chains have a tight link. Get off, slowly backpedal, and you'll seethe link cause a hop in the derailleur. Grasp the links on either side, and push and pull laterally to loosen the tightey. Also try lube.
~ Creaks from the handlebar and stem. Tighten the binder bolts connecting the stem to the fork and the handlebar to the stem. On threaded headsets, try tightening the expander bolt. (Don't tighten the star washer bolt on threadless headsets unless the fork feels loose.) It this doesn't work, spray a little lube between the stem and bar.
~Buzzes come from a water-bottle cage, mini-pump holder, or that new chi-chi you just had to have. Touch suspect objects while riding to find the buzz, then tighten the appropriate bolt. ~ Rattles: A mosh in your toolbag. Use rolled socks to hold things such as your spare, mini-tool, tire levers and cash. It stops the jangling, plus you can stay grime-tree by putting the sock over your hand when you do repairs in the field. You can also pretend the sock is talking to you. ~ A thump means your tire is way out of round, the tube is getting ready to blow the tire off the rim, or you just ran over someone who was having a conversation with a sock.
· The popular candy bar with the lowest fat is a Three Musketeers. Now you can say, 'Hey, this thing is as good for me as a PowerBar." It would be a lie, but you can say it.
· You can die from not drinking enough, and even if you don't, a low fluid level can harm your ability to ride, especially at high elevation. Take the largest bottles you can buy and gulp either water or an energy drink several times an hour.
· It's better to drink all your liquid in the early stages than trying to ration it for the ride's duration.
· "People look crazy at you when you say you want to go to Mickey D's. But when you travel all over the world and you can get that same Big Mac anywhere - hey, that's security. That's the American way."-Greg Herbold
· Proper nutrition is important, but never buy a food or beverage whose mascot advocates the consumption of its own kind. Like when an anthropomorphized cup of Pepsi enjoys a cup of Pepsi, or a smiling hot dog sells wieners. That would be like you sitting down to refresh yourself with a cup of liquefied human flesh and people sausages. Disgusting.
· "Having a good diet at any age is key for good results. I use vitamin supplements, eat a lot of high-carbo foods, and stay away from foods high in saturated fats. But I do think that it's not good to be too strict, either. If you like cookies, try to find some that are low-fat. You already have to suffer too much on the bike, so if you suffer at meal time, too, you'll lose overall enthusiasm." -Ned Overend
· Eat before you're hungry. Drink before you're thirsty. Look before you leap. I before E except after C.
· "Sometimes you need to use a stutter step so your pedal doesn't hit a small obstacle. Take the pedal halfway down, then lift it back up to ensure clearance and push down again."-Ned Overend · Although you want to transmit energy to the pedals through as much of the pedal stroke as possible, scientific studies have pretty much proven that it's impossible to apply force in a complete circle. There are always dead spots. Rut trying to pedal circles makes you think about your stroke - and will improve your consistency.
· "Make sure you don't rock when you pedal - or if you are, make sure you're in a good rhythm. Make the inefficiency of rocking worthwhile."-Rishi Grewal
· Simply pushing down on the pedals chop, chop, chop, chop - robs you of power because you're delivering energy through less than half of the pedal stroke. You lose potential speed, oomph and traction. This inefficient stroke also wastes your body's energy. And the uneven pressure causes your bike to sway. Your balance and control aren't as sharp as they would be with a steady stroke. All of these factors are most noticeable on climbs (where spinning is especially useful), but they'll detract from your cycling even on the flats. Remember to pull up.
· If you're as fit as your friends but can't hang on the hills, your sloppy stroke may be to blame. Fix it and rage.
· The easiest way to diagnose a dud pedaling style is to pull up on the pedals next time you ride. If the motion feels strange or a few minutes of the effort blows your quads, you'll know you're not used to spinning.
· On your next ride, focus on one leg at a time for 15 minutes each and try to pedal through as much of the stroke as possible. Then stop, forget about it and have fun. Do this a couple times a week and your stroke will smooth out in less than a month.
· Do a lot of little shifts to maintain cadence - even if it's just two teeth. And when you stand, go to one harder gear to maintain speed."-Peter Swenson
· If you use clips and straps, you may have to tighten the straps to get enough grip to be able to pull back and get a round stroke. If this makes you nervous, only tighten the strap of the leg you're focusing on. (Getting accustomed to riding with tighter clips is a psychological fringe benefit of this drill.)
· A lot of riders think that by concentrating on pulling up on the pedals, they'll no longer push down with as much power. Don't worry. Your legs "remember" to push down.
· Here are the four steps to the ideal pedal stroke:
~Push down.
~Before the pedal reaches the bottom, pull back on it as if you're trying to scrape mud off your shoe.
~Pull up.
~Before the pedal reaches the apex, push forward on it. (The entire sequence resembles a square, but think circles.)
· Ride rollers to develop a smooth spin. Yeah, there’s probably nothing more anti-mountain biking than twirling your tires indoors. But there's no quicker way to learn to spin. And you can probably find a used set of these antique training devices for about $50. If you can stay on these squirrely things while spinning at about 120 rpm, you know you're pedaling in circles. The ability will follow you when you go out the door and onto the trail.
· If you're tired in your lungs, slow your cadence. If you're tired in your legs, speed it up.
· Here are the 10 top up-grades for racers-inwaiting:
~ Half-tilled tubes: In a race, all repairs are up to you, so you've got to be fast. Fill a pair of tubes halfway and stuff them in your jersey pocket. It you flat, you'll save about a minute with this trick.
~ Hydration backpack/energy drink: Hydration can be the difference between a good race and a painful experience through the depths of hell. Hydration systems from CamelBak and competitors allow you to carry a lot of water and let you get to it fast. Hot tip: Put plain water on your back for copious hydration, and carry a bottle of energy bev on your bike to make sure you don't bonk.
~ A real outfit: It you've got the nerve to carry off baggies and T, go for it. But a jersey can be a useful place for a mini-tool or spare tube. And we all know the benefits of Lycra and chamois. If you're in a local club, wear that jersey. You'll really feel honch.
~ Quickfills: Forget the pump. In a race, you want to get in and out of a fight fast. So use instant-fill C02 cartridges. If you've never used one, practice first. Bring a spare in case you screw up.
~Clear-lens glasses: Most courses move in and out of shadow. At high speeds, you need to be able to pick a line fast. Clear-lens glasses help. Use shaded lenses only on extra-bright courses.
~ Thin grips: Fat, foamy grips don't give you enough response for real racing. They can lead to forearm pain and can get slippery when wet or sweaty. Go with thin rubber models.
~ Front suspension: A shock lets you go faster over extremely tough terrain. Look for one that's adjustable and fairly light. It you don't have one, don't be intimidated by all the shocks you'll see at the start line. Think of those riders as wimps who need a cushion or use whatever reasoning you need to not get psyched out.
~ Good tires: It you have a new bike and it costs less than $700, there's a good chance it has 'original equipment" tires that are heavier and less supple than high-quality racing tires. Race tires can be expensive ($25-$50 each), but they're worth it. Run them at slightly higher pressures than normal to avoid flats.
~ A new chain: Broken chains are one of the least-expected-and most common ways-to lose a race. Put a new chain on the week before an important event. Ride it a few times. The reward? Smooth shifts and no worries.
~ Pedals you like: Clips and straps aren't popular on the circuit. But you don't have to go clipless. Don't fall for the hype if you're not comfortable with it. And if you do switch, make sure you have time to practice with the clipless system before the race. Many BMX-bred downhillers use platform pedals and plain sneakers.
· Here are eight wondrous pieces of race advice from six-time national champion Ned Overend.
~Know thy course: Walking the course before each race is key. Walk it slowly, noting the parts that might give you trouble-and the spots where you might gain time.
~How do you get to Carnegie Hall?: Practice It there are tough technical sections, rehearse them several times. That's especially important it your handling skills aren't good yet.
~Stay in control: It you don't have a chance to pre-ride, you really need to maintain a controllable speed for whatever's around the next corner. You lose more time by crashing than by being controlled. ~Expect the unexpected: At smaller races you can find all sorts of stuff on the course-cars, motorcycles, hikers. Be careful. Never assume that a closed course is an empty one. And never assume a course is closed just because the organisers say it is. ~Pick your opponents: In your first races, just compete against yourself, and against the course. You want to do as well as you can, but don't pace yourself based on the other riders. Pace yourself based on your experience doing hard rides at that length.
~Don't start too fast: If you think you'll be at the front of the pack, by all means go out fast. Otherwise, start at your regular riding pace. One exception: If there's a lot of dust or traffic in the middle of the pack, you might think about an early break. ~Beware of downhills: Most serious injuries occur in sport and beginner classes. People get so excited they tend to ride over their heads. You don't win races on downhills, usually. You win with consistent riding. ~Review the results: When it's over, look at how you did. Did you go out too last and end up slower overall? Did you have problems on the flats? Did you get dropped on climbs? Did you have mechanical problems? If you identity your weaknesses, you can address them. Do the same thing for your strengths. If there were sections you put time on your competitors, give yourself a pat on the back-and work to add to those strengths in your second race. · Confidence is the number one thing, and to have it, you need to do your homework. That means proper hike setup, reading the course. It means getting a good sleep the night before. If you show up relaxed and sure of yourself, you'll ride well. Tense and tight, and you make mistakes."-Greg Herbold · The best place to pass in a race may be on the uphill. Pro racer Steve Tilford says, "people screw up on the uphills. They slow down or lose traction. If you don't, you'll pass." · If you don't want somebody to pass you during a race, don't let them. On singletrack, you own what's in front of you and around you. If keeping the pack slow is part of your strategy, stick to it. But if you're just being a jackass, give everybody a break and pull over. · During races, if you see people pile upon a big climb, get off your bike before you reach them and run by. If you wait, you'll get caught in the morass. · Pre-riding is a luxury for cross-country race slackers. But downhillers must practice. Pros recommend 10 runs the day before your event. Pick every line you can. Then figure out how the course is going to wear and adjust your strategy. You're thinking way ahead of a lot of riders and you'll probably finish that way, too.
· "You have to race to become a better racer. It sounds obvious, but you know... .You can do all the training in the world but to put it all together for a single day just doesn't come from training. It comes from getting out there and making mistakes, and making a better effort next time. -Alison Sydor
· "When the start gun goes off, it's easy to forget how good of a state you were in just moments before. Even though you're feeling strong you can get all caught up in the racing and the worrying about 'oh, I'm hurting.' Ignore those first few race thoughts and remember how strong you felt right before the gun."-Andy Bishop · "I race differently at altitude than sea level. At altitude if people are going way too hard for me, I'll just maintain my rhythm and then slowly pick up my pace if I can. I do this so I make sure I don't blow up. Whereas at sea level I'll go with surges - I'll make an attempt to stay with them if I think I can go with a little bit of a surge. It's harder to blow up at sea level."-Tammy Jacques
· "Race within your ability, You hear that a lot, but it's important. It means not overextending yourself. Cross-country races are long, and if you go into aerobic deficit during the race there's a high cost to be paid sometime. You might not have to pay it until the last half-hour of a race, but you will pay. -Alison Sydor
· "If possible, always pass on the inside of a turn. The distance is shorter." Sound stupid? Hey, every inch of real estate is taxable. -Silvia Furst · "Road riding compared to mountain biking is pretty simple physically. But there's more thought - tactics and strategy. So if you try road racing, don't be disappointed if it takes four or five years to get it all down. Tactics don’t get involved much at the beginner level, where - the strongest people win. But at mid-level you need to be a tactician to win that’s something mountain bikers have to learn."-Steve Tillord
· "Racing speeds have increased to where drafting sometimes comes into play. It didn't used to be like that. Before you just stayed with people for pacing. Rut now if you lose contact, it’s possible in some sections that you lose a draft. The people who have road experience will benefit from understanding drafting. The simple sport of mountain biking doesn't really exist anymore. The simple Sunday ride will never change, but the racing side already has and will continue to. I think it's fun."-Alison Sydor
· When racing on singletrack, you may ask politely that the gentleman in front of you yield or give way to your superior speed and skill. He may, however, politely refuse. If you wish to proceed, you must learn to force pass. How can you learn this? Practice with a friend of equal or greater skill. Have him or her ride at full-throttle. Then, you do the same. Try to pass. Have your friend try to stop you. Do not throw elbows, but be aware that physical contact may occur. If you continue to play this game and it is a fun one you will never again be forced to watch somebody's butt on the course if that isn't your wish.
· When you want to pass and the leading rider doesn’t think that's such a great idea, get your bar-end in front of his (or hers). Once you've achieved this critical position, getting through is almost assured. · To start well in a race, have a lot of confidence and be fairly aggressive. It's tough because even people who won't be a factor at the end of the race can start so fast. I think the attitude to have for a good, fast start is to make it your goal to be in the top 20 in the first quarter-mile, then be prepared to give a hard effort to get there."-Susan DeMattei
· "Be realistic about where you hope to finish in a race. If you're the hundredth man in the sport-class starting line, you're not going to get to the singletrack in good position and your chances for a great finish are pretty low. Go for the highest spot you can get, but don’t freak out because you can't win. If it mattered that much, you should have lined Up better. "-Susan DeMattei · "Sweat the details when you're preparing for race day," says downhill rocket Mikki Douglass. Fine advice, but what's it mean'? Here are four clues:
~"Pack rain gear and warm clothes in a bag. No matter what."
~"lf you have to walk through mud or wet soil to get to the starting line, wake certain you (or a helper) has a wire brush or screwdriver to clean your cleats before you get on the starting ramp. I've found that duct tape really works well; simply cover the area around the cleat and peel the tape away when you're ready to start. It works a lot better than a brush and it takes less time."
~"Keep a race-day diary. Write down a routine that seems to work for you: The music you listen to. The time you spend in mental rehearsal, the number of jumps you do on a windtrainer, the type of power drink you're ingesting-one day it will all come together to make the perfect pre-race routine and you'll want to know exactly what it was."
~"Go hard when you hear that off-tone beep!"
· To roll over stuff about 6 inches high, just follow these five steps.
~ Approach with enough speed so that even if you didn't pedal for 2 feet before the collision you'd still clear the obstacle. This will seem way fast at first, but give it a try.
~Get into position. This makes the rest of the process possible. Have both legs bent equally, crankarms parallel to the ground, butt slightly oft the saddle, elbows and knees not locked.
~Unweight the front wheel while holding it steady. Shift your body slightly rearward from the ready position. But not too far. A few inches is usually enough. You're doing it right when your elbows are a little more than halfway between a 90-degree bend and a straight-armed position. And keep those joints loose. ~Absorb the impact with your elbows and knees. When the front wheel hits, let the bike come up toward your chest. If your elbows are loose, they'll bend as this happens. When your front wheel hits the ground on the other side, return your arms to their original position. This pushes the bike away from you (forward) and helps bring the rear wheel over. Your knees play a similar role. ~ Return to the center of the bike while unweighting the rear wheel.
· Front wheels have a tendency to stick against tombstones, If you clear an upward-jutting rock with your front wheel, the back one can still get caught and rebound you off your bike, Keep your elbows and knees bent to absorb these nasty impacts. · Blowdowns are created when trees, vines, drunks or other big stuff falls onto the trail. Like a washout, a blowdown can appear unexpectedly - one reason you should never assume trail conditions are the same today as they were yesterday. Always expect the unexpected on a mountain bike, You'll save some skin that way.
· Everyone has stronger leg, the same one you kick a ball with. Try to have that leg set up to apply pressure and get up and over an obstacle. Also, use a lot of upper-body motion. When your front wheel is midway over an obstacle, use your pedals to lift the back wheel over. Your weight will be back, and then it will be thrown forward like a dolphin arcing through the water. You can also use one obstacle as a jump to get over the next one, such as when a one-foot bump is followed by a small rock.
· Minor obstacle sections - like those littered with small logs or ditches - can be manoeuvred two ways. You can either wheelie/jump them, or ride slowly through them. Don't snub the ride-through method. Many novices don't believe their bike can roll over stuff. It can.
· "Surge just before an obstacle so you have enough momentum to go over it. If you apply hard pedal pressure while you're on the obstacle your rear wheel might break loose."-Ned Overend
· You can lunge your bike over stuff too big to pedal over. It's like a jump for uncoordinated people and sissies. But it works dang fine. Here are four steps to doing it:
~Lift your front wheel over the obstacle. Even it you can't do a wheelie on level ground, you can loft on an uphill. It's much easier. Press down on the handlebar to compress the front tire. Then pull up and back. To get maximum front air, combine the pulling movement with a hard pedal stroke. Then level those cranks. Don't want to catch a low one on the log.
~Pull your body forward until you're over the front end. Your butt should be off the saddle. Your elbows should be bent. The physics-moving body on a moving bike create something called counterforce that will slow the bike. If you didn't start with much speed, you might even come to a standstill. Don't panic.
~Shove your bike forward. This sounds crazy and impossible but it's almost pure instinct. Your body knows you can do it but your mind doesn't. Physically, it’s easy. You're strong enough to push your bike. (Don't you roll it beside you all the time?) But it takes some kind of conceptual click to realise that you can push your bike forward underneath you. ~Pedal. If you kept your cranks level, you should be ready to mash out a hard stroke to get going again and pull the last bit of your rear wheel over.
· Try this next time you want a surge in speed: Shift to an easier gear and increase your pedal cadence. Just before you spin out (pedal as fast as you can), shift to a harder gear. Repeat this until you're at top speed. This isn't the ideal method. (You probably won’t need to shift to the easier gear once you get the feel. And if you're super-strong, you can forget this and just jam.) Rut it's an easy and clear way for novices to learn the relation between spinning and speeding.
· At high speed, smaller obstacles mean almost nothing. You don't want to steer too much because you'll slow down and risk losing control of the bike. Just ride over most stuff, floating on top of the bike. Remember: The bike wants to keep going. Be a good cat and let it.
· Remember: The faster you go, the smaller your movements need to be to affect the bike’s line. In other words, it’s harder to bunny-hop from a standstill than at 50 mph. It's smarter, too, but that's a whole other subject.
· When you get comfortable riding at high speed, you’ll become super-confident at 90 percent of that speed.
· A faster bike is a more stable bike. · Inertia is as much a cycling tool as balance or fitness. It'll get you through a lot of things. If there's a section you're having trouble with, maybe you're going too slow. Grit your teeth and try going just one or two miles per hour faster. Momentum does other cool stuff too, like turning marginal bunny-hops into cloud-banging flights. · We all have a pace we maintain most of the time an average speed. (It's possible to go faster, but this is where we mostly ride.) Any tiny gain in average speed takes tons of practice and dedication. So it could take years to go from a ~O-mph rider to a 12.5-mph rider. But at some point you hit the Magic Speed Barrier (which is slightly different for everyone). If you get past this, amazing speed increases are possible. The Barrier is where loads of finesse and finagling are replaced by sheer speed and momentum. You don't need to miss stuff because you ride right over it. · Go out and watch birds. When they fly slow they make big, sweeping movements with their wings to change direction. But when they swoop or dive, they accomplish the same amount of directional change just by twitching a single feather. Be a bird. As your speed increases, your bike and body adjustments should become smaller. It's easy to get pumped and overreact in even a simple turn, or yank the bike way the heck up in the air when that's not at all a good thing. When speeding, be spare and graceful. Demolition-derby drivers flail. Formula One racers caress. · You need to develop a kick whether it's to win a race at the line or zip over a short but steep hill. One way is simply to honk on the pedals and get your power up. This works, but it can blow your legs. Spinning faster is more efficient than putting more force into your pedal strokes.
· New riders seem to think their security is directly dependent upon their rear remaining on the saddle no matter what. Wrong. The saddle transmits every jolt and vibration straight to your butt and spine. Use your mountain bike's primary suspension system not forks or seatposts, but arms and legs. Your wrists, elbows, shoulders, ankles, knees and hips create a superbly flexible and efficient suspension system that will do wonders to float your torso and head above the action. Keep your legs and arms bent and loose. · Some singletrack riders are sloppier than others. This is fine. If you're the kind of rider who is always bashing into things, a set of L-shaped bar-ends rather than the straight-ahead shorter ones could save you from the painful disease known as - tree hook." · Grasp the bar just firmly enough to maintain control. Set the brake levers close to the grips and angle them so you can extend a finger or two around each and still hold the bar comfortably. Always ride with your thumbs under the bar so your hands won't slip on a bump. On rough terrain, grip more firmly for safety and use bent arms to absorb bouncing. Firm grips are less fatiguing to the hands than the squishy ones that feel so nice on the showroom floor.
· One of the reasons your hands get tired is because you hold the handlebar in a deathgrip. You can stop this if you drum your fingers on the bar. Another good trick is to imagine gripping a handlebar that's twice as big around. Freaky but effective. · Grasp the bar just firmly enough to maintain control, Set the brake levers close to the grips and angle them so you can extend a finger or two around each and still hold the bar comfortably. Always ride with your thumbs under the bar so your hands won't slip on a bump. On rough terrain, grip more firmly for safety and use bent arms to absorb bouncing. Firm grips are less fatiguing to the hands than the squishy ones that feel so nice on the showroom floor. · Ride as close as possible to people who are better than you don’t just ride with them, but stay close behind them and study what they do. · "Watch BMX riders. They're the smoothest. They're the epitome of being smooth of riding with minimal impact, being really really smooth and soft."-Myles Rockwell · Don't hunch your shoulders and you'll avoid muscle soreness and fatigue, retilt your head every few minutes to stave off tight neck muscles. · To keep mud out of your eyes when you don't have glasses, turn your head slightly, about 10-15 degrees or until your nose points toward the end of your handlebar. Close the eye in front to keep mud out of it. Your nose will act as a kind of fender, stopping slop before it reaches the protected eye. If some muck does get past your beak, reverse the position by looking toward the other side and using your fresh eye. Sounds really absurd. Works really well.
· Here are 10 riding and equipment tips for nirvana amid grunge:
~Get a rear tire that won't plug up and become a de facto slick. Most will, especially tires with forward-facing scoops, or wide, straight-across tread blocks. Use low pressure-not so low that you get pinch flats, but almost that low-to lessen the chance of crashes on slippery roots and rocks.
~Muddy water washes lube from the chain, which leads to chainsuck, so lube your chain before and after every ride with a good wet-weather product.
~Change your brake pads. They'll need work after almost every ride in the mud. ~Buy cables in bulk, and replace them frequently-about once every two months, with several cleanings in between, if you ride frequently in wet conditions. Headsets, bottom brackets, hubs and tree-wheels all die young when immersed in dirty water. Be prepared to work on these components frequently, and budget for their replacement. As for your post-ride bike-wash, use only a low-pressure hose or soapy brush, and keep the water stream well away from all seals and bearings.
~Stay on your saddle when riding in mud. Standing doesn't work in muck-you need to keep that rear wheel loaded at all times.
~Run one gear higher than you would in the dry. This reduces torque to the back wheel, and you will slip less. ~Drag your brakes well before you need them. This cleans your rims for serious braking.
~Watch for strangely smooth, level, matte-finished surfaces on the trail-especially if they bubble. Such a surface usually hides a collection of fine silt, washed into a low spot by the rains. These muck ponds can be deep and energy swallowing. ~ Don't charge into a potentially deep puddle if you don't know the terrain intimately. Sometimes riders disappear completely (except for bubbles) in deep puddles. ~Learn to read terrain. Mud riding is fun, in a perverse kind of way, but not everybody should do it. It your bike is going to permanently mar or damage the trail, stay the hell off of it! It all depends on where you are, and on the soil and slope you are riding on. Basically, if the mud is so bad that riding is a pain, you probably shouldn't be riding it. If you're leaving tracks (other than in low-spot mud-gathering places), you probably shouldn't be doing it. If water is running down the tracks you leave, you definitely shouldn't be doing it. If your tracks will be frozen into adobe until the next rain (and maybe the next decade), you absolutely shouldn't be doing it.
· On sidehill trails that cut across a slope (instead of following it up or down), lean your hike outward so you don't scrape the inside pedal. Keep your nose on the uphill side of the stem to stay centred on the trail. Keep your eyes on the trail. Pay no attention to the hideous drop-off of the lowside - or the intimidating overhang of the highside.
· Here are five night-riding tips to help you ride off into the sunset.
~Don't be an idiot. For your first night ride, pick a trail you know and ride slower than you think you should until you get used to the sensation. Ready to speed up? Don't. Wait until that first obstacle or blind turn pops up and tosses you oft your bike. While you're on the ground contemplating your owie, think how much worse it would hurt if you'd been flying. Now you're ready to find your personal speed limit.
~Do the light thing. Those hundred-buck high-tech lighting systems make night riding safer and more fun, but don't delay your first ride if all you have on hand are cheap lights. Hang enough lousy illuminators on your handlebar and you'll get adequate night sight. Whatever you use, wake sure the beams are solid for at least five feet in front of your wheel and provide some illumination for at least 10 feet. And carry a small emergency-only light in your jersey pocket or saddle bag. It'll come in handy when you biff your others. Also remember that unless you're using a helmet-mounted light, you have to point your handlebar wherever you want to look. This takes some getting used to.
~Hang loose. When the action really starts to rip (even in daylight), some riders tend to clutch the grips and begin riding tight and nervous. But at night it's more important than ever to relax and just let the trail happen. Instead of trying to force your bike to go a certain way, concentrate on getting over (around, through, under...) what the trail puts in front of you. It's a subtle but important difference. A big part of accomplishing this is keeping yourself in the classic "ready" position - elbows and knees loosely bent, buff slightly off the saddle-so you can absorb bumps and control your bike with side-to-side weight shifts. ~Follow someone. It's amazing how much easier this makes things. Even if all you can see is a dim white spot threading the woods 50 feet ahead of you, you'll have a general idea of where the trail goes. It's one less info hit your overworked brain will have to absorb.
~Follow the moon. That is, try to ride when luna is bright. Most of us are so daylight-oriented that we think of the night as the night. Dark is dark. But riding beneath a silver sliver and beneath a full-moon are completely different eyesight experiences. In fact, longtime lunatics find full moons bright enough for riding without artificial lights.
· Washboard is a patch of kidney-bouncing earth ripples. It's uncomfortable, but not real dangerous if you don't tighten up, relax your hands, get up off the saddle slightly, bend your knees and elbows, and let the bike float. Slow for turns on washboard.
· Washouts happen when water erodes across a trail. Exposed rocks and other junk waits at the bottom to puncture your tire or send you flying. Hop washouts if you can. Earth-friendly advocates suggest stopping and lifting your bike over to avoid further erosion. At least go real slow.
· Scared to surf the steps leading off your deck or in front of the public library? Don't be. Here are six steps for riding steps.
~Keep loose as you approach the lip, get way back as on any steep descent, and let the bike bounce itself down. Don't panic when the humps feel bigger than you expected.
~Concentrate on steering straight and absorbing as much shock as possible by flexing your knees and elbows.
~Use the front brake to sparingly scrub off speed, but don't slow down too much. Without enough momentum, you'll stall and take a dive.
~Never try to stop mid-stairway. Bad wreck.
~Try to find 8-10 low-rise steps to practice on. Any fewer and you don't get enough prolonged bounce time to learn anything. Any more might be trouble. This beginner’s stunt has one of the highest ease-to-impressiveness ratios in all of mountain biking. Give it a try.
· Gravel can help you control your speed. It can also spill you off the bike. The trick is how you enter it, and whether you see it before you enter it. Riding gravel is a bit like riding sand, and a bit like riding in rockier stuff. Hard pedaling will get you traction.
· Don't turn your handlebar when you're trying to change direction in heavy sand. This ploughs dirt forward, creating resistance to the turning motion. Instead, lean the bike into the direction of the turn more than you lean your body. You can practice this by riding on top of a curb. Turning the bars will dump you off the curb.
· This is the perfect position for washboard. Keep your butt above the saddle and weight slightly back. You should hover just above the saddle. From this versatile stance you can rise higher and pedal for a quick burst of speed, or drop quickly back onto your seat."-Dave Wiens
· A drill to improve traction:
· Drop-offs are easy. Just follow these four steps.
~Approach the lip slowly enough to look over the brink, but not so slowly that you have to twitch the front wheel for balance. Take a quick mental trip down, avoiding any major front wheel stoppers (rocks, roots) by not looking at them. Breathe in. Breathe out. Take a stroke to get going, then hold the pedals level and start lifting your butt off the saddle.
~Slide your butt back as the front wheel drops in. Let the bike go first, then follow it. The front brake does nearly all the work, so don't use much rear. If either wheel skids you'll slide of the good line.
~Did you ever tip backwards out of a chair? It happens because your centre of gravity goes beyond the pivot point of the rear chair legs. Ditto with drop-offs (except you tall forward). Keep your hips behind the contact/pivot point of the front wheel by straightening your arms and legs and burying the saddle in your belly. Front brake finesse keeps the rear wheel rolling and on the ground.
~Begin lifting your buff as you eyeball the transition back to flatness. It the exit is abrupt, you'll have to let go of the front brake and pull up hard on the bar to prevent tupping. Leave enough room for your crotch to clear the saddle. Then keep your eyes on the trail and move on-you cleaned it.
· To flow over rollers and humps, push down on the handlebar as you start to descend the backside.
· "The training I like to do is go hard when you can, and when you do go hard you go as hard as you can."-Alex Stieda
· Negative compressions are ditches, erosion gullies and animal wallows - places where your bike suddenly drops from under you then smacks an upslope on the far side. Here are six steps for saving yourself from a body slam. ~The faster you're riding, the greater the impact of the compression. The slower, the less you'll notice it. While accumulated experience is the only way to know how fast you can hit a compression, you'll rarely be sorry for erring on the side of caution, consequently, the first tip: Slow before you enter the compression by lightly applying the brakes. ~As your front wheel hits, anticipate with arms the impact of the wheel hitting the up-slope. Flex your legs, and simultaneously pull up on the handlebar. These motions soft-en the impact. Again, your eyes should remain focused on the trail ahead.
~Releasing the brakes is crucial. Many riders panic and squeeze the handlebar and brake levers. They fly headfirst into the woods or oft cliffs.
~Let your body absorb the impact of the sudden transition. Your exhalation (cheeks putted from breathing out forcefully) should coincide with the absorption. It's as if your torso simply collapses into the bike. In truth, it's the other way around: The bike comes up into your body.
~Begin a power stroke to drive the bike up and out of the compression. To maintain traction, pull back with your arms and legs. You should still be out of the saddle but only slightly. Keep your body low and forward to press down on the front wheel to maintain steering control.
~As you continue up and out of the compression, simply relax, sit on the saddle, and return to your normal trail-riding position.
· Some folks don't have a lot of dirt to ride on. Instead, they pedal with abandon through deadly concrete canyons. Here are six tips for wholesome, entertaining city riding. These tips are guaranteed and torture-tested in New York City.
~Cover Your Bike With Tape: The nicer your bike, the more other people might want it. This isn't bad in Mann, where genteel folk traipse the trails. In Brooklyn, when somebody wants your bike, they might take it. The preferred tape is black, cloth handlebar tape, though just about anything will do. Why don't thieves just realise a bike is worth stealing when they see the tape? This is one of life's great mysteries, and not answerable here.
~Wait For Others When Cros |